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Flashback: First Sess in Mexico

Flashback: First Sess in Mexico

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Six Years Ago on DogMan's Chronicles

The Green Room

First Sess in Mexico

Typical wave at the point.


Not much notsble wave action in Surf City the past couple days, or even weeks. So how about a flashback to a previous year, another location with waves? Check this retro column from a few years ago.

Monday July 7, 2008

Awoke this morning at 530 AM; Mike and I prepared to ride! We packed some gear, ate breakfast, sucked some superior coffee, waxed the sticks, and smoothed sunscreen over our bodies. Time for the first session in Mexico.



Bug Plague

The sky was overcast; the ocean was glassy. Swell didn't look to be too big, but then again, it's difficult to tell precisely from camp. Because it's located deep in the lee of a small bay, only reflected and attenuated waves reach the shore in front of our home base. The first panga filled quickly, with me and seven other eager surfers. We motored south to the big point break, and jumped into the water. Our driver Isreal cruised close to shore to help me paddle the mango gordo board ashore with the camer gear on my back in the waterproof pack. Too bad I forgot to bring the bug juice, as the insects began to plague me as soon as I was ashore.

Mike C.


Tube Monster

I set the photo equipment on the rocks near the end of the point, with a good view of the take-off spot and the rides down the line. Didn't take long before I was madly snapping the action in the waves. Right away, Malcolm caught a large wave that rolled and peeled for hundreds of meters. Dean impressed us all with his insane barrel riding; we call him the "Tube Monster." Everyone caught a bunch of waves.



Crossed Swell

The swell was crossed up, limiting the connections through multiple sections. But that didn't stop anyone from having a stoke-filled first session. The overhead waves and the low tide made hollow conditions and easy barrels. After an hour or so, John came ashore to do the camera thing, so I paddled to the tip of the point to surf.

Dean the Tube Monster



My wave count wasn't too high, but I had a great time anyway. I paddled slow and easy, conserving strength for the outbursts I needed for catching and riding. The fish performed beautifully in the smooth ocean, with cat-like turns and speed along the straight lines. A truck with four locals appeared, and they all joined us in the lineup. Even with close to 20 guys in the water there was plenty of waves for everyone. It was a mellow vibe, and not to hot.

Mark goes Vertcal

Tim Floats

Camera Man

As the morning aged, Mike, Dave, James, and Malo all manned the camera. The sun began to peak through the breaking overcast, the crossed up swell straightened, and the slight off-shore breeze turned on-shore. By noon we had all surfed more than enough for the first day, and boated to camp for lunch. Later in the afternoon, after siesta, we will check the photos from today. Everyone wants to see themselves shredding the Mexican waves.

James Charges


Good News

And the good news is we have six more days of tropical surf. Hope my paddle arms can withstand the stress of daily sessions that stretch for as many as six hours!

Mike M.



CU Out There,


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