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Up and coming

Up and coming

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Empty waves waiting for riders

Up and coming

Rare Monday session. Got to the break a bit late, but that's ok. Everyone else has to work. Only me and Phil staring at the waves, which were substantial. Felt like winter swell in the water. Excep the water temperatures are off the charts; 64 degrees, and that's Farenheit!

Surfing the winter swell

Few myself

Couldn't pull on the rubber suit quick enough. Watching the waves, I saw several perfectly rideable head high peelers roll through the lineup completely empty. What a shame. Once in the water, I rode a few myself.

This ones a left

Once again

Steep drops with only my toes toughing the deck. Long long long sections going right. Rising tide stealing all the beach in the Death Cove. Kick out to see an endless set of overhead closeouts bearing in on me. Hey! It's winter surf once again.

Riding left

It's over

CU Out There,


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